Eric doing his best GQ pose, happy on Willadine |
As
soon as we get out in the river, I’m thinking Oyster Bay. I have no logical
reason for this, can’t explain it, but the little voice keep s insisting,
Oyster Bay, Oyster Bay. Eric sails Willadine east, headed for Judith Island
where some friends anchored recently. I saw my first marsh hawk there. It’s
lovely. Still, I keep hearing, Oyster Bay, Oyster Bay. I suggest this to Eric, but
apparently, his little voice is now saying Mouse Harbor. It’s his favorite
place out here, a large ring of Marsh, with river on one side and the sound on
the other. We almost never see other humans there. There are no houses, very
few duck blinds, just a permanent shelter for bird watchers.
Somehow,
in an uncharacteristic move, Eric misses the entrance to Mouse Harbor and runs us
aground trying to get in a back way that isn’t a back way, at all. It’s a
lovely spot anyway, with sandy beaches a short wade away. The water is only
about a foot deep. Trusty motors us off and we head for guess where: Oyster
Bay. My little voice relaxes, feeling smug. We’ve been in Oyster Bay several
times, usually on our way to Mouse Harbor through the sneaky cut that only
Willadine and the fishermen can get through. It’s about two feet deep.
Today there
is a nice easterly blowing us right into Oyster Bay. Running downwind on the
headsail alone is such a fine easy thing to do we love it. It’s very quiet in
Oyster Bay. I look on the chart and see that the creek actually goes really far
back, much farther than we’ve been before. A small fishing boat with a ruddy
faced man and two little boys veers past us, makes a loop and comes back
around. The man, who for some reason I expect to have an Irish accent, but
doesn’t, asks if we are lost. Over the noise of his motor, he can’t seem to
hear that we only draw eighteen inches, but he lets us know that it’s only four
and five feet deep in this bay. We thank him and he says he’s never seen a
sailboat in here before. We are not surprised. He zooms off.
We
watch as he goes up to the Oyster House, a long low industrial looking building
with bulkhead all around and a shiny silver metal roof you can see for miles.
Apparently, it was a going concern at some point, but now it seems like a casual
stopping place for local fishermen. Off the back is a raised porch with chairs,
tables and a couple of hummingbird feeders, a woman’s touch. Still sailing, we
pass it all by and emerge into new (for us) territory. There are no houses as
we venture farther back, just marsh and trees and more duck blinds than you
might imagine. Beyond the marsh and the single line of trees, we can see the
river and in the distance the north shore. Around the next bend, I see a dark
spot in the tangle of white and orange crab pot floats. It moves. Eric sees it
at the same moment.
“What’s
that?” He asks me.
I
peer at the round head with the binoculars, but it dips under before I get a
look. It’s not a crab pot float. It’s something alive. Of course my first
thought is alligator, but it was round, not reptilian at all.
“Beaver?” Eric offers.
“Yes,
maybe beaver, but they didn’t slap.” Beaver slap the water loudly with their
tails to alert others to danger. These critters don’t slap. Instead, through
the binoculars, I see a sleek brown head poke up, roll over on its back and
munch a small fish using its agile paws.
“Otters.”
I say, quietly reverent. “River otters.” Otters are my favorite animals. If I
could choose to be reincarnated, it would be to come back as a sea otter. I
have never seen a river otter before (much interesting information on them found here) and they are just as cute as their
seagoing cousins. We glide silently by downwind on our headsail watching the
pair of otters frolic and bob, peering at us curiously.
We
drop the anchor after we pass the otter spot, hoping to get more looks at them,
but they never reappear. We eat a light dinner and I throw out a fishing line,
but nothing bites. I wonder if the otters eat their fish whole, head and guts
and all, or if they just chew out the fleshy bits.
The sunset comes a little
later, the clouds lit up in pastels of lavender and pink, the sun a giant
orange ball dropping behind the single line of trees. The sunrise is not as dramatic,
but it comes up through the trees as well, making a lovely dark frame for the
brilliant sun.
I can hardly believe my good fortune in getting to see that pair
of otters. The little voice was right. Oyster Bay was the place to be, although
from now on, it will always be Otter Bay to me.
It's so important to keep our smugness about those little voices to ourselves, isn't it? We wouldn't want to call attention to them. You need to sail on the west coast if you love otters. We have river otters here, but when we recently landed on Vancouver Island, we were surrounded by sea otters. It was enchanting. I sat on the boom and viewed them from above, cracking shells against rocks on their chests. I love them.
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